Filmmaker Brad Jacobson shares advanced knowledge on how to drop in on big waves, arguing that when done correctly, it is one of the biggest adrenaline rushes in surfing. The tutorial focuses on the subtle technique of pushing the nose down and using weight distribution to control the drop on vertical wave faces.
Key Takeaways & Tips
The Nose Angle
When dropping in, you want the nose facing at an angle down instead of straight out. Pushing the board down early is the first critical step.
Weight Distribution on Drop
The most intelligent thing you can do is get as far back on the tail as possible. You must lean back hard so the nose of the board is lifting up, preventing the nose from digging in the water. One surfer is shown with his heel actually off the board due to the amount of pressure on the back foot.
Speed Transfer
After successfully making the vertical spin by keeping all your weight on the back foot, you then start to push that weight down onto the front foot to gain speed down the line. This transfer of weight helps accelerate the board.
Pop-Up Speed
A quick pop-up is essential. The transition from laying down to getting your feet up on the board must be extremely fast, especially on a quick-moving big wave.
Steering
Steer the board by pushing the weight on the back foot and turning the board in the desired direction. On a vertical wave, the surfer leans forward and slightly off to the side to initiate the turn down the line.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Nose Facing Straight
Allowing the nose to face straight out when dropping in is incorrect. The water pushes up on the board, slowing you down and hanging you up in the lip.
Decelerating
Getting hung up in the lip due to incorrect board angle puts the surfer at a dead standstill, causing the wave to break on them and resulting in a wipeout.
Over-Distribution to the Back
Even though you need weight on the back foot, excessive weight for too long can stall the board too much. The weight must eventually be transferred forward to accelerate down the face.
Rushing the Circuit
Avoid rushing into big wave circuits before building board knowledge, wave knowledge, and confidence, as big waves have big consequences.