Nathan Florence breaks down the crucial decision of when to duck dive and when to bail your board in big surf. The tutorial covers specific techniques for surviving big whitewater, timing your duck dive between explosions, and the consequences of bailing your board.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Duck Dive is the Go-To
The duck dive is your first go-to choice in every paddle out. It saves energy, prevents you from bailing your board in front of others, and eliminates the risk of snapping your leash, which leads to a long swim in.
Big Whitewater Technique
For giant, big whitewater, you must bear hug your board and hang on. If you get pushed deep, turn your board sideways underwater (rail to surface). The board’s buoyancy will guide you straight to the surface faster than if you bailed.
Slab/Dumpy Wave Technique
On slabby or dumpy beach breaks, wait for the lip to land, and duck dive under the second explosion. You want to be about five feet away from where the main lip lands, putting yourself in a calm “pocket of space” between the main wave and the secondary explosion.
Mechanics for Deep Duck Dive
If the wave is bigger than head high, use your foot on the grip pad to push down for a bigger dunk (instead of your knee). You can do a “double scoop” motion with your foot and pull yourself toward the board for an even deeper dive.
Board Size Limit
The maximum size board you should duck dive is seven feet and under. Boards over seven feet (big guns for Jaws, etc.) should be bailed because nobody is strong enough to duck dive them.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Bailing on Big Whitewater
Bailing your board on big whitewater is discouraged because you risk breaking your leash, throwing your board in front of someone, and getting dragged super deep underwater without the buoyancy of your board.
Bad Timing on Slabs
Being too close to where the lip lands on a slabby wave will cause you to be “exploded” and worked. Good timing is key to hitting the calm pocket between explosions.
Duck Diving Thick Slabs
Do not duck dive thick, back-heavy slabs (like Chopes). There is too much energy in the entire mass of water, and even a professional will likely go over the falls. You must bail and swim through those waves.
Bailing in Front of Others
Always be aware of who is behind you. Never bail your board directly in front of someone, as the board shooting back can cause serious injury.