This episode of the In-Depth Surfing Podcast focuses on the mental side of surfing bigger waves, managing fear, and overcoming your comfort zone. The tutorial argues that you have a choice in how you respond to stressful situations and provides methods to change your mindset from negative to positive.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Perception of Size
What is considered a “big wave” is entirely subjective and based on your perception, comfort zone, and familiarity. You need to understand: How big is the wave, and how is it breaking? Is it a quick, stressful break, or a slow, gentle one?
The Choice to be Stressed
It is your choice to be stressed and uncomfortable in challenging conditions. You can choose to let fear take over, or you can control the stress by focusing on being relaxed and in the moment.
The Maybe Mindset
Overcoming fear becomes impossible if you always doubt yourself and say “no.” Change your entire outlook by changing “no” to “maybe.” This means thinking: maybe I’ll get the best wave, maybe I’ll make the drop, or maybe I’ll feel something new. This shift impacts your body, causing you to relax.
Overcoming Tension
Your fears and the tension in your body are the biggest things holding you back. You need to center yourself, take a breath, and use methods like whistling or box breathing to consciously work on releasing tension and relaxing the body.
Box Breathing
Box breathing is an amazing relaxation method: a four-second inhale, a four-second pause, a four-second exhale, and another four-second pause. Repeat this cycle until you can get back into a relaxed state.
Keep Busy
The compounding fear that holds most surfers back is fixed by keeping busy. Do not sit still; catch waves, paddle, do something to take your mind away from the fear. Even catching whitewash is a small win that builds confidence.
The Pre-Surf Setup
Before your surf, set an intention, make a primary goal, and focus on one thing. Find a small win (e.g., just making the drop, relaxing as you fall) to build confidence.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The World of I Can’t
Many surfers are stuck in the world of “I can’t,” which translates to “I probably could, but I’m too scared to try.” This self-doubt must be replaced with the “maybe” mindset.
Ignoring Tension
Many surfers are unaware of the tension they carry into the surf. Tension is the enemy of good style and technique, and it limits the way you move and perform.
Letting Fear Compound
The worst thing you can do is sit in the surf and let your fear compound, which causes that internal, negative voice to become louder and more controlling.
Antagonizing the Problem
Focusing on the problem, rushing it, and doing a million repetitions of a bad habit only makes the problem worse and more powerful.