Pro surfer Jamie O’Brien breaks down his personal technique for backside barrel riding, emphasizing speed, a low stance, and using the wave face for balance and support. The core principles involve a quick entry and maintaining a low center of gravity by holding the rail.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Takeoff
When paddling, use big, long paddles, and when the takeoff comes, jump off the board really fast. Pop up low to the board immediately. The hands go from paddling to instantly grabbing the rail [1:33].
Balance and Lean
As you drop in, start **leaning into the wave**. You are using the wave to create balance and support. You can put a lot of weight into the lean. You may also leave your hand dragging on the wave face for control [1:56].
Proper Stance
Open up your stance: your outside leg should be out, and your inside leg should be slightly in. Get low. The best stance has the **back leg down** and the body open and low [8:01]. Avoid grabbing the rail with two hands or having your back leg sprawled out [8:37].
Front Foot Drive
You apply a lot of weight on your **front foot** when dropping down the face. You use the inside rail as a fin by digging it in hard and pivoting. This is where you pivot and gain speed and momentum dropping down the face [5:56].
Stalling
If you realize you are starting to come out of the barrel and want to stay in longer, you can apply your leg out to the wave under the lip. For a strong stall, you can drop your **hip** into the water; this drops all your speed, which is useful when the wave won’t barrel for a while [9:07].
Center of Gravity
The low center of gravity is the key to backside barrel riding. You are pivoting off the front foot and staying low. By getting low and holding the rail, you gain stability and balance [7:18].
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Double-Hand Grab
Avoid grabbing the rail with two hands (pig dogging), as it is not the most stylish or efficient look, and it limits your ability to release when exiting the barrel [8:40].
Standing Upright
Avoid grabbing the rail with a high, upright stance. You must get low to the board to maintain balance and stability, especially under the lip [2:33].
Back Leg Sprawled Out
A major mistake is a backside stance where the back leg is sprawled out or too far up. The back leg needs to be down and the body opened up for the smoothest, most stylish ride [7:53].