Big wave professional Koa Rothman answers common questions about the intense world of big wave surfing, detailing how to manage the overwhelming fear and the necessary training required to handle life-threatening situations.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Fear is Always Present
The answer to whether big wave surfers are scared is always yes. Fear is good because it keeps you from putting yourself in a bad situation that could end up killing you. The reward usually outweighs the risk, but the fear remains.
Dealing with Fear
The way to deal with fear is through a lot of training and practice. This helps you know what your body can handle. If you are mentally there and know you are trained, you can handle whatever the ocean throws at you.
Physical Training
Training involves a lot of breath holding work and cardio work. This simulates what happens in a big wave fall scenario, allowing you to sustain a really high heart rate for an extended amount of time while holding your breath.
Safety Equipment
Surfers use an inflatable vest (like the Quiksilver vest) to save their lives. It has pull tabs that pop a CO2 canister to inflate the vest and bring the surfer to the surface. It also has a release valve to let air out if you need to go under another wave.
Safety Training
You must take safety classes, learning CPR, jet ski operation, and how to save others. You must be prepared not only to overcome your own panic but also to save your friends who may be unconscious or on the cusp of dying.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Not Training
Failing to train mentally and physically is the primary reason surfers cannot deal with the inevitable fear and panic of extreme situations.
Panicking
Panic is the biggest danger. You must be trained to stay focused and not panic, especially when your friends are in a bad situation and you have to help save their lives.
Overcoming Fear
The goal is not to eliminate fear (because fear is good), but to learn how to deal with it and use it as a tool to stay alert and keep yourself from putting yourself in a bad situation.