Pro surfer Brett Barley breaks down the critical technique of taking off late, which is essential for maximizing tube time and backdoor sections. The tutorial covers optimal positioning, how to adjust your approach based on the wave’s power, and survival tactics for air-dropping steep faces.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Takeoff Positioning
The place you do not want to take off is in the zone right at the top of the peak, as this leads to the least amount of barrel time and the highest chance of going over the falls. You want to be **behind** the peak, regardless of which direction you are going [1:25].
Heavy Wave Technique
For a heavier wave, position yourself **further away** from the section where the drop is easier. Take off, use one big pump, and shoot through the barrel quickly before the foam ball eats up the tube [2:38].
Weaker Wave Technique
For a weaker wave, position yourself **closer** to the peak so you can stall as soon as you stand up, maximizing your barrel time. If you take off too far back, you will shoot through the barrel too quickly [2:08].
Air-Drop Technique (Survival)
When air-dropping from the peak, put all your pressure on your **back foot toes** immediately upon landing. This digs the fins and board into the face, slows you down, and keeps you from going out into the flats or getting caught by the lip [9:44].
Backside Air-Drop
On a backside air-drop, **never let go of your rail**. You have an advantage because you can grab the rail, pull up, and lean your body weight (butt/back) into the face of the wave to slow down and pull yourself up the face to stall [14:57].
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Taking Off on the Peak
Taking off in the “no zone” at the very top of the peak results in a dangerous air-drop, less control, and a high probability of wiping out or getting the least amount of tube time.
Paddling Hesitation
Hesitating after paddling some and then going over the falls is much worse than powering hard and getting to the bottom and then falling. You should always give the wave your all [24:59].
Frontside Crouch
When air-dropping, do not crouch over your front foot, as this will cause you to pearl. You must keep all your weight on your back foot and keep your shoulders parallel with the face of the wave [18:33].
Letting Go Backside
On a backside drop, letting go of your rail is the biggest mistake. If you let go, you risk pearling or shooting out into the flats, as you cannot set your rail on your heels as effectively as you can on your toes frontside.