You’ll never get barrelled until you understand this | IN-DEPTH SURF LESSON

This in-depth lesson, filmed during a coaching trip to Sumatra, aims to drastically shorten the learning curve for tube riding. It emphasizes that getting tubed is a quintessential surfing moment and focuses on building the necessary awareness and confidence to commit to the correct line and positioning for quick, short barrels.

Key Takeaways & Tips

The Tube Riding Goal [0:15]
The moment of getting tubed is the quintessential surfing moment, which surfers try to collect as many snapshots (sensations, photos, videos) of as possible. Nothing in surfing comes close to chasing a tube [2:06].

The Backdoor Approach [7:22]
The back door approach involves a surfer positioning themselves strategically **behind the peak** of the wave so they can take off straight into the barrel. This is necessary because barreling waves provide so much speed and power that taking off on the peak would propel the surfer out in front [7:38].

The Safe Zone [6:50]
The challenge for surfers is to take off about one or two meters deeper than they are currently comfortable with. This shifts their yardstick of what is “safe and normal” to a deeper position, which is essential for making short, quick barrels [6:56].

Tube Line [10:33]
The general tube line is just under the **halfway mark** of the wave. Surfers need to pinpoint this line and get the board on that trajectory to maximize their time in the tube [10:33].

Commitment [5:03]
Confidence is a missing ingredient for many surfers. Because the barrel is so quick and short, everything has to move a little faster, requiring the surfer to trust their pop-up and their line [4:55]. The challenge is to commit to sections that may look too small or too narrow [12:18].

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Fading and Pulling Up [4:11]
Trying to fade and then pull up into a short, quick barrel is generally harder than taking off behind the peak and knifing straight into the tube.

Paddling Too Late [0:15]
A common mistake on small, quick-breaking waves is failing to paddle early enough to get right underneath the lip and do the required knife-in [6:10].

Going Straight [17:54]
When the opportunity arises, going straight instead of angling into the tube will cause you to miss the barrel. You must actively hold the line that directs you into the tube.

Overwhelm [11:32]
Experiencing overwhelm or confusion (thinking a section is too small or too scary) is common but prevents commitment. Coaches often address this by resetting the baseline with sessions of fun, playful surfing [11:48].

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