This tutorial breaks down the specific technique necessary for riding inside a barrel, focusing on the subtle adjustments needed to maintain the perfect position. The lesson uses professional surfers like Kelly Slater and Stephanie Gilmore to illustrate foot pressure, body alignment, and speed management in various barrel situations.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Foot and Knee Positioning
Focus on your back foot: your heel is up, and your toes are all the way over on the back rail of the surfboard. Your back knee is pointed forward and extremely close to your front leg. This position distributes pressure on the back rail.
Maintaining Position
Keeping pressure on the back rail enables you to make **small adjustments** that prevent you from dropping too low in the barrel (where the lip could catch you) or getting too high (where you would get flipped upside down) [2:30].
Foot Lift (Speed Check)
Your foot should be stepped up off the tail pad, not all the way back. This is used for **speed checking** and maintaining the optimal plane of the surfboard for flowing through the barrel. Dragging your hand on the wave face slows you down; removing it speeds you up [4:17].
Head Positioning
Maintain a **chin up, eyes focused in front** head position throughout the entire barrel ride. Never drop your head or eyes, as this will drop you too low within the barrel and cause you to lose it. Eyes should be focused up on the top of the wave where it is curling [4:59].
Knee Angle
Your knee needs to be pointed forward along with the rest of your body, but it doesn’t always have to be as close to the front leg as seen in pro examples; it depends on the size of the wave and the barrel you are in [5:45].
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Dropping Head/Eyes
Dropping your head or eyes will drop you too low within the barrel, causing you to lose sight of where you want to go and lose the wave.
Using Big Adjustments
In smaller barrels, big adjustments are unnecessary and will throw you off balance. You only need a little bit of pressure and small adjustments to maintain that perfect spot.
Incorrect Foot Position
Failing to have your back foot up on the board or correctly distributing pressure on the back rail will prevent you from maintaining the optimal plane and position within the barrel.