This tutorial focuses on helping intermediate surfers achieve their first successful barrel ride. It breaks down the process into five critical elements: having the right wave, line, stance, position, and timing, with tips specific to short, hollow, and faster down-the-line barrels.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Five Key Elements
The five things needed for successful barrel riding are: 1) the right wave, 2) the correct line, 3) the correct barrel stance, 4) the correct position on the wave, and 5) the correct timing (when to stall, when to speed up) [0:36].
Line for Hollow Waves
For hollow barrels (like those found in wave pools), the best line to have is a **lower line** closer to the bottom of the wave. If you stay too high, you risk getting sucked over [2:20].
Line for Small/Pinching Waves
On smaller barrels that are pinching, the best line is to keep a **higher line** on top of the wave and ride more parallel with the wave. If the barrel gets hollow, you must adjust your line to a lower one [2:57].
Barrel Stance
The barrel stance should be very **low and tight**. Drop your rear more than your head and tuck your arms and shoulders in. This stance differs slightly from your stance for doing turns [3:13].
Gaining/Adjusting Speed
To slow down, you can lean back and sink the tail or use your hands to drag inside the wall. To speed up, lean forward and/or do one or two pumps, especially in hollow ones where pumping is easier [6:51].
Positioning
The correct position in the barrel is as **deep as possible**, right next to the foam ball. For faster, down-the-line waves, don’t ride too close to the foam ball because you need extra speed to beat the wave [5:25].
Common Mistakes to Avoid
High Line on Hollow Waves
Staying too high on a very hollow wave will cause you to get sucked over or have the wave break on your back.
Bending from the Waist
Bending from the waist (dropping your head more than your rear) puts you off balance and causes you to get smashed when the wave breaks on your back or head.
Moving Too Much
In the barrel, you must avoid moving too much in your stance. You should be focused on making small, continuous adjustments to your feet to control speed and stability [7:55].
Incorrect Timing
Stalling too early or too late causes you to miss the timing of the barrel and the wave to miss the perfect window for getting tubed.