This tutorial analyzes a fun “Battle of the Small Waves” heat between two surfers to highlight common mistakes and correct technique for small, non-powerful conditions. The key takeaway is the difference between surfing mid-face and flat (which creates drag) versus surfing rail-to-rail and top-to-bottom (which uses wave energy).
Key Takeaways & Tips
Use the Full Wave Potential
Do not run away from the top or bottom of the wave. The successful surfer (Yani) consistently surfed top-to-bottom, going to the very bottom to feel the wave draw up energy, which was then released at the top.
Rail-to-Rail Surfing
When the surfer struggled, they were surfing “flat, flat, flat,” meaning they were not engaging the rails. When Yani put the board on rail, the rocker helped the board turn, utilizing the equipment and wave energy better.
Nose to the Beach
The successful surfer had a tendency to make the nose of the board face the beach (riding downhill) and then bringing the nose back to face the beach again after the turn. This means they are consistently riding downhill and using the wave’s energy, rather than racing across the face.
Weightless Surfing
The successful surfer looked “upside down” and inverted, getting lighter and taking his weight off the board. The unsuccessful surfer felt heavy and was “sinking” the board. Being weightless allows the board to accelerate through the turn.
Mental Approach
The successful surfer was super relaxed and showed no tension, gliding onto the waves and looking where he was going. The unsuccessful surfer was frantic, looking around, and surfing with tension, which caused him to lose the connection with the wave.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Surfing Mid-Face
Staying mid-face and surfing in the “flats” (the gray dead zone) prevents compression and extension from working, as there is no wave face to push off of.
Rushing the Paddle
Frantically paddling and splashing everywhere because you feel you “have to catch a wave” completely ruins your mind’s ability to read the wave’s potential.
Not Dropping In
Paddling across the wave face instead of dropping into it causes you to lose speed and be positioned mid-face, which prevents you from setting up turns.
Changing Equipment
Blaming the board and switching equipment constantly is a big mistake. The board usually has nothing to do with it; the failure is in the technique (surfing flat) or the mental state.