This tutorial addresses the universal experience of facing intimidating or scary lineups. It provides six structured steps to improve your comfort level in challenging conditions, arguing that comfort is largely determined by exposure, and that everybody experiences fear at different levels.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Step 1: Assess the Conditions
Take the time to assess the conditions before paddling out. Ask yourself: Have you surfed waves this big before? What kind of surfboards are people riding? Is there anyone of a similar ability catching waves? The final conclusion must be a definitive and inclusive yes or no on challenging yourself today.
Step 2: Visualize the Paddle Out
Identify and visualize the entire paddle out process. You are looking for a part of the break where there is little to no whitewater, and you must observe the frequency and signs of the sets to ideally avoid one landing on you.
Step 3: Identify Target Waves
Begin identifying the exact type of waves that you want and the waves that you don’t want from the session. Visualize yourself catching the waves you want, which helps you identify where you need to be in the lineup and the type of line you might want to take.
Step 4: Commit to Your Decisions
Commit 100% to your decisions in the water. Lack of commitment (pulling back or not paddling enough out of fear) is one of the most dangerous moments in surfing, as it can result in getting mowed down by a wave behind you.
Step 5: Surf with a Friend
Surf with a friend who is ideally just a level above you and more comfortable amongst those waves. This provides obvious safety implications and allows you to watch and emulate their behavior, making the session less intimidating.
Step 6: Recognize Your Limitations
Recognize your limitations and where your comfort zone is. The pursuit should be about challenging yourself slightly out of your comfort zone, but it should never be to the point where it paralyzes you with fear. This journey occurs over years, not days or months.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Paddling Out Uninformed
Paddling out into a lineup completely uninformed is the opposite of what you want. You must assess the conditions rigorously beforehand.
Mistiming the Paddle Out
Mistiming your paddle out and coping sets on the head or misplacing your paddle out position are common mistakes that can be avoided with observation and visualization.
Half-Hearted Commitment
Surfing with a half-hearted commitment is generally much less safe than going with 100% commitment.
Paralyzing Fear
Challenging yourself should not produce anxiety to the point where it paralyzes you with fear. The goal is excitement and engagement, not dread.