This tutorial addresses the natural challenge of surfing bigger, powerful waves and provides the exact steps that helped the author become more comfortable in solid surf. The key to overcoming intimidation is balancing the conditions with your skill level, committing 100%, and controlling your mindset.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Safety and Sensibility
Before paddling out, ask yourself: Am I pushing myself sensibly (a little bit at a time), or does this surf greatly exceed my own abilities? You won’t achieve flow state if your abilities are too greatly exceeded by the conditions.
The Flow State Balance
Flow is achieved when there is an appropriate balance between the conditions and your skill level. Push the conditions by a figure of about 10 to 15% past your comfort zone; this allows you to feel confident, in flow, and challenged at the same time.
Board Choice (Control)
In big waves, the focus is on control, not generating speed. Choose boards with sharper, rounded outlines and rounded tails (the typical shortboard shape), as they sink into the water more, offering more control. Avoid flat, straighter fishier boards.
The Speed of Commitment
In big waves, the speed at which everything occurs is faster. If you hesitate, you will compromise your technique. The best surfers paddle super fast and commit 100% to every wave they want.
The 3-2-1 Go Principle
If you find yourself hesitating, use the 3-2-1 Go principle. Counting yourself into the wave serves as an external accountability factor for commitment. The common thread with surfers who commit on their own is they already have this mindset in place.
Breath Control
Consciously controlling your breathing throughout a session helps you stay centered and calm, and more oxygenated to deal with any potential hold-downs. Find a breathing rhythm as you paddle and use it as an anchor.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Paddling Out Unprepared
Paddling out if you are freaking out or totally uncomfortable is wrong. You must spend time assessing the conditions beforehand so you paddle out informed, confident, and prepared.
Surfing the Wrong Board
Trying to use a fish or flat-outlined board (designed for generating speed) in big surf where control is needed can compromise your ability to harness the wave’s power.
Hesitation
If you hesitate (pulling back or trying to pop up too early), you compromise your technique, which is the worst thing you can do in big waves.
Pushing Too Far
Pushing the conditions to greatly exceed your own abilities is dangerous and will prevent you from achieving the flow state that makes surfing enjoyable.