Noseriding is affected by the constantly changing environment; the approach to the nose ride must differ significantly depending on whether the waves are big or small. The main implications stem from the difference in speed and steepness.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Noseriding on Big Waves (High)
On bigger, faster waves, you must position yourself much more highly on the wave (top third or shoulder). The speed of the wave is less likely to be hindered by the board’s drag, allowing you to stay high and carry your momentum.
Noseriding on Small Waves (Low)
On smaller, slower waves, you must position yourself in the most critical section possible. This means getting your board into the bottom third of the wave, close to the power source, or underneath the breaking lip to counter the nose’s tendency to drop.
Angling the Board (Big Waves)
When high on a big wave’s shoulder, you need a slight angle towards the beach. The wave wants to push you toward the beach, and angling too far across the wave face will cause you to fall off the back.
Small Wave Setups
To get deep on a small wave: 1) Use a **fade takeoff** to get deep off the start; 2) Use **cutbacks** from the shoulder to return to the power source; or 3) Use **check turns** to make small adjustments and position yourself under the lip.
Stable Stance
To counter instability in bigger waves, maintain the fundamental stable position: knees nice and bent, staying nice and low, with your chest positioned over your front foot.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Too Critical on Big Waves
Trying to get too deep and critical on a big wave. The speed and steepness of the wave are likely to cause the board to slip out, resulting in a wipeout.
Small Fin on Big Waves
Using a small fin (like in a 2+1 or thruster setup) for noseriding in big waves. The smaller fins will disengage easily, making the board slip out (“helicopter”) and causing you to fall.
Staying High on Small Waves
Positioning too high on a small wave’s shoulder. Since the wave is folding over at the top third, staying high will cause you to get caught in the lip or pearl because you lack the speed to keep going.