Key Takeaways & Tips
Stay Critical for Counteracting Force
When the board is in the critical section, the white water breaks onto the tail, applying force that counteracts the surfer’s weight on the nose, allowing you to stay on the board.
Critical Positioning Creates Lift
Riding in the hook creates a steep drop-off where the nose would normally connect. This position allows you to get an amazing levitation or lift underneath the nose, a feeling that is essential for a good nose ride.
Be Patient and Linger in the Hook
World-class longboarders are patient, lingering around the critical section—riding off the tail and stalling—until the perfect moment arises. Don’t rush; wait for the wave to stand up and the opportunity to open up.
Focus on What is Ahead, Not Behind
Don’t worry about trying to recover a section that has already broken behind you. Focus on the section in front; if it looks critical enough, go to the nose, and if it flattens, backpedal to set up for the next peak.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Riding Too Far Out on the Shoulder
If you nose ride out on the face or shoulder of the wave, the tail is completely exposed, and there is no water breaking on it. This lack of counteracting force guarantees the board will nosedive.
Ignoring Equipment Setup
A pivot fin (large single fin) provides a better anchor and holds the board down in critical sections, making you less likely to slip out than with a two-plus-one setup in fast, critical waves.