This tutorial breaks down the essential technique of pumping, arguing that it is the primary way advanced surfers generate speed and maximize acceleration. The lesson covers the physics of angular momentum (similar to vert skating) and the critical timing of body compression and extension to propel the board forward on the wave face.
Key Takeaways & Tips
The Pumping Line
Pumping is done in a smooth, flowing motion using lots of the wave’s face. Experienced surfers usually come back up to the top third if they need speed and keep the line close to the pocket (or curl) for maximum acceleration.
Pumping Mechanics
When going up the face, you unbend your knees and extend your body (standing high), throwing your arms towards the direction you want to go. When dropping back down, you bend your knees and compress your chest down towards the front knee. This creates maximum acceleration.
Angular Momentum
Pumping works by manipulating the conservation of angular momentum. By starting with bent knees and extending as you go up the ramp, you bring your body’s center of mass closer to the axis of rotation (making the turning radius smaller). This increases velocity and projects you up the ramp with more speed.
The Body Throw
When extending and decompressing, you must throw your arms further forward. The more the center of mass moves toward the axis of rotation, the more acceleration the surfer gets.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Wiggling in the Middle
Do not just wiggle in the middle of the wave. This prevents you from gaining speed from the drop and propulsion during the bottom turn.
Riding into the Flats
Do not ride far down the bottom of the wave into the flats, as you will easily lose momentum and acceleration there.
Late Extension
A common mistake is to miss time the extension. If the extension does not happen when you start turning back towards the top of the wave, you fail to move your center of mass and lose the chance to accelerate.
Incorrect Arm Throw
Extending and throwing your arms forward will not help you accelerate when surfing in a straight line. It only works if you are turning back towards the top of the wave.