This tutorial, Episode 1 of the “How to Surf Better” Paddling series, focuses on the basics of efficiency, aiming to increase your wave count. The lesson details how to find the board’s sweet spot, shift weight forward, and keep the head still to maintain maximum glide and momentum.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Head Stillness and Weight Shift
Keep your head as still as possible for control. You can put your chin down on the board to use the weight of your head to actually shift momentum and weight forward, which is essential for catching the wave and having control.
Board’s Sweet Spot
Every board has a sweet spot where it achieves maximum glide. For most boards, this means having the board sitting in a neutral state, with the nose about one to two inches from the water surface.
The Hands Forward Trick
If you are on the fence about catching a wave, put your hands out in front of you. This shifts the weight of your shoulders and hands forward, providing a tipping point that carries momentum without needing to paddle harder.
Paddling Position
Thrust your hips and chest firmly onto the board, more forward than back. This positioning helps the board glide and increases forward momentum when paddling.
The Surf Skate Test
Practice the “one-push” takeoff on your surf skate. You should be able to get on the surf skate with one push, get your feet set quickly, and immediately start carving. This simulates the quick action needed on a fast-breaking wave.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Head Movement
Allowing your head to move all over the place when paddling hard prevents you from having good control over the board and limits your forward glide.
Neutral State
Laying too far back or forward on the board prevents it from sitting in a neutral state, creating drag and reducing maximum glide when paddling.
Beginner Purl
For a beginner surfer, putting the chin down on the board to tilt the board forward often leads to a purl (nose dive) because they do not yet have the balance to manage the quick weight shift.
Poor Surf Skate Control
If you struggle with basic control and an efficient takeoff on a surf skate, you will struggle to pop up and set your line on a fast beach break.