This tutorial argues that surfing small waves is not a hindrance but an opportunity for progression, as it forces surfers to become adept at crucial, fundamental skills. The lack of fear in small conditions allows surfers to hone their wave knowledge and speed generation.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Small Waves = Better Surfer
Surfing small waves can make you a better all-around surfer. This is proven by surfers like Kelly Slater and Julian Wilson who grew up surfing small waves and became world champions.
Wave Reading
The ability to read waves really well is much easier to learn and refine in small waves. The general lack of fear and less stimuli allow you to focus and hone in on what is actually happening with each individual wave.
Equipment Choice
It is critical to ride an appropriate surfboard for small waves. The board should be nice and flat with a really flat rocker, which allows you to go fast because there is less resistance against the surface of the water. Something flat and fishy is generally recommended.
Volume
Volume determines the buoyancy of the board. The smaller a wave is, the less power it offers, making it critical to ride the right volume. An intermediate 80kg surfer would need about a 28 to 30 litre board for small waves.
Speed Generation
Surfing small waves forces you to become good at generating speed. The speed must be coaxed and encouraged out of the wave with good technique, as the natural power of the wave is often not enough to perform big maneuvers.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Incorrect Rocker
Riding a board with a really steep rocker creates more resistance and is difficult to surf in small waves. Steeper rocker is better for bigger waves where control is needed.
Riding the Wrong Volume
Riding a board with the wrong volume for your weight and skill level will prevent you from harnessing the minimal power the small wave offers.
Lack of Practice
Failing to become adept at surfing small waves is a mistake, as the majority of a surfer’s career is spent surfing smaller-than-ideal waves.
Reliance on Big Wave Power
Expecting the natural power of the wave to deliver the speed needed for maneuvers will result in failure in small waves; the speed must be generated by the surfer.