This tutorial analyzes Nat Young’s famous last-minute wave at the Rip Curl Pro Bell’s Beach, which won him the heat and sent him to the finals [0:37]. The lesson breaks down three key techniques Nat used to accelerate and catch the wave, relating the physics of swimming to efficient surfing paddle technique.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Technique 1: The Kick
Nat Young begins kicking as hard as he can even before the wave looks rideable. Kicking primarily raises the back half of his body and board higher in the water. When the back half of your body is higher, there is less resistance, allowing you to move through the water faster.
Technique 2: Head Down
He drops his head down during the time he needs the most acceleration. Dropping your head on a shortboard brings the body and board more parallel to the surface, thus reducing resistance. In swimming, this is similar to keeping your head neutral so your lower body stays closer to the surface.
Practice: Reduced Resistance
A good drill is to lower the angle of a kickboard in the pool from perpendicular to parallel with the water’s surface to feel the difference in resistance. You want the feeling of gliding your hand parallel to the ground, not perpendicular.
Technique 3: Commitment
You must fully commit and want the wave. Nat paddled “so hard in his life” for that wave. Amazing things happen when a person really wants something, and a lack of commitment is why many great waves go by.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Looking Down
When you look down while paddling for a wave, you are looking at the bottom of the ocean. This will cause you to drop your chin and subsequently your lower body, which increases resistance and slows you down.
Body Position
When the body is lower in the water, more resistance is pushing against you as you move forward. You must minimize this resistance to move faster.
Failing to Accelerate Early
If you are behind a wave, it is vital to start kicking and paddling early to gain speed. If you wait, you lose the chance to catch up and are left behind.