Paddling out on a longboard can feel harder than on a smaller board because its greater buoyancy makes it more heavily impacted by crashing waves. Without the correct techniques to pass the break, you will consistently lose progress. The goal is to limit how much you get pushed back by each wave and conserve energy.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Push Through Technique
The easiest and most efficient way to get over small whitewater or unbroken waves. Paddle toward the wave at a 90-degree angle with good speed. Just before impact, grab your rails and push up with your arms and toes, moving your weight back to let water pass between you and the board.
Turtle Roll Technique
Used when the wave feels too big for the Push-Through. About six feet before the whitewater hits, turn yourself and the board upside down. Leave some space between your body and the board, and ensure the nose is sunk and sealed to the water surface. Flip the board back up and over in one motion.
Dive Under Technique (Last Resort)
Used when the wave is too big and powerful to attempt a Turtle Roll (often due to bad timing). Get off your board, hold onto the leash/board on your side, take a big breath, and dive deep under the water, waiting for the wave to pass completely over you.
Timing Sets
Time yourself by noticing the sets. If you have just caught a wave, you are likely in a set. It is always best to wait for the set to be over before attempting to paddle out, as it will be much easier in between sets.
Limit Transition Time
Focus on getting back into the paddling position as quickly as possible after doing a technique. Limit the time spent wiping water out of your eyes or placing your hair back.
Get Into Your Sweet Spot
Once back to the paddling position, make sure you are in your optimal sweet spot on the board before starting to paddle again. This helps you glide efficiently and paddle to your full potential.
Look for Channels or Currents
Use channels or currents (areas where water moves out to the ocean) to help you paddle out more easily and save energy. At reef or point breaks, this may mean paddling to the side first to reach the channel.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Underestimating Push Through Capacity
Surfers often underestimate their ability to push through decent-sized whitewater with good momentum. Learning to do so helps you pass the break more efficiently.
Incorrect Turtle Roll Angle
A slight angle on your board (not 100% perpendicular) during the Turtle Roll will ruin the maneuver, as the whitewater will hit the side of your board and throw it out of your hands.
Getting Off Board in Crowded Spots
Do not use the Dive Under technique in crowded areas without checking behind you. Your board and leash can span five to six meters, potentially hitting other surfers as the wave carries your board back.