This tutorial focuses on the geometry of the takeoff line, comparing the detrimental straight line with the optimal curved line. The wave is described as spiral energy, and by matching this curve, surfers can gain acceleration, minimize drag, and have more time to get to their feet.
Key Takeaways & Tips
Wave Geometry
A wave is a spiral energy traveling through water. The correct line to surf is a **curved line** (the Cycloid or Brachistochrone curve), which is the fastest and most energy-efficient way to travel down a curve [3:06].
The Wrong Lines
Many surfers take one of two wrong lines: 1) a quick, straight drop where they get stuck at the bottom (quickest potential drop-in time) [1:53], or 2) a mid-face straight line that goes against the flow of the water [2:23].
The Quarter/Half Circle
The most energy-efficient line is riding down in a **quarter circle** and then riding up in a **half circle** (which is then repeated). This is the way to generate the most speed and travel [4:16].
Speed is a Result of the Line
If you pick the correct line, the wave can give you the acceleration and speed you are hunting for. This prevents you from having to use your body to generate the speed, which is less efficient [5:22].
Pop-Up Time
Taking the correct line gives you **more time** to get to your feet, get comfortable, and start surfing the wave well. Taking the wrong line means you won’t have enough time to balance or complete the pop-up [8:05].
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The Straight Line
Taking a straight line down the wave causes your board to slow down because of the board’s rocker, and there is no acceleration. This creates a lot of drag on the bottom of the board [4:23].
Going Against the Flow
The mid-face straight line goes against the flow of the water, meaning you are working against the natural energy of the wave, which is inefficient [6:22].
Head Down/Not Reading
Beginner and low-intermediate surfers often put their head down and just paddle, failing to read the wave. This results in the quickest potential drop-in, where they don’t have enough time to get to their feet [6:02].
Over-Complicating the Pop-Up
By not paying attention to the wave and trying to do the quickest, fastest pop-up, you disengage from the right line and find yourself in the wrong part of the wave where your board won’t fit [8:40].